Day 3: "Cloud Cotton," Vintage Feels, and the Dirty Secret of US Yarn

Welcome back to Day 3 of My Dad vs. The Algorithm.

We’re taking the most confusing questions AI says you are searching for, and getting the no-nonsense answers from my dad, Ira—who has been knitting fabric in Los Angeles at Greene Textile since 2001.

The Question

Today, we are tackling the most confusing part of the fabric world: Yarn Types. You see words like "Combed," "Ring Spun," "Carded," and "Open End." You also see fancy marketing terms like "Cloud Cotton."

Alex holding the two contenders: Open End (for that vintage 90s feel) vs. Combed Ring Spun (for that modern soft feel). Which vibe is right for your brand?

I asked my dad:

"Dad, what is the actual difference between Combed, Ring Spun, Carded, and Open End cotton? Is one 'bad' and one 'good'? And is 'Cloud Cotton' a real thing?"

The Answer

Ira:

"First of all, 'Cloud Cotton' is made up. Unless they figured out how to knit water vapor, it’s just marketing to make you feel better about paying $50 for a t-shirt. As for the different yarns? Stop thinking 'Good' vs 'Bad.' Think 'Texture. 'Carded or Open End is that dry, rugged, vintage feel. Think of an old concert t-shirt from the 90s. It’s tough, it has structure, and it feels 'dry' to the touch. Combed Ring Spun is the polished stuff. We comb the fibers so they all lay flat. It’s super soft, smooth, and drapes over your body. At Greene, we knit with both, but for different customers. If you want a soft fashion tee, you use Combed. If you want that heavy, boxy streetwear look, you use Open End."

The Reality Check

Ira nails the distinction here. It’s not about quality; it’s about the vibe.

1. Open End / Carded (The "Streetwear" Standard) In the 90s, this was the standard. The fibers are spun together quickly, creating a yarn that is bulkier and fuzzier.

• The Feel: Dry, textured, and stiff.

• The Look: This is what high-end streetwear brands (like Yeezy or heavy vintage blanks) often use to get that "boxy" structure that stands away from the body. It’s not "cheap"—it’s a specific aesthetic.

2. Combed Ring Spun (The "Soft" Standard) This is what people usually associate with "premium" tees today. The raw cotton is literally combed to remove short fibers and impurities before spinning.

• The Feel: Silky, smooth, and cool to the touch.

• The Look: Cleaner and drapier. If you are printing detailed graphics, this provides a smoother surface. (You can feel this softness in our Jersey Collection).

The "Made in USA" Secret

There is one massive difference between these yarns that most brands don't know about: Where it comes from.

If you want a truly Made in USA supply chain—from the dirt to the shirt—you almost have to use Open End / Carded yarn.

Here is the supply chain reality: Even though the US grows a massive amount of cotton, we export almost all of it. Why? Because decades ago, the machinery used to make Combed Ring Spun yarn (which is labor intensive) moved overseas.

• Combed Yarn: Usually, the cotton is grown here, shipped to Asia or India to be spun into yarn, and then shipped back. It’s hard to find true, 100% US-spun combed yarn.

• Open End Yarn: Because this process is highly automated, the machinery stayed in the US.

  
  

The Takeaway: If a brand claims they are "100% Domestic" or "Berry Compliant" (military grade), they are likely using Open End yarn.

Tune in tomorrow for Day 4!

Whether you want the "Dry Vintage" look or the "Super Soft" feel, we knit it all. Check out our Stock List or order a Swatch Set to feel the difference yourself.