Day 6: French Terry vs. Fleece (The "Haircut" Lesson)

Welcome to Day 6 of My Dad vs. The Algorithm.

We are taking the most confusing technical questions about fabric and getting the unfiltered truth from my dad, Ira—who has been manufacturing knit fabric in Los Angeles since 2001.

(Missed the last post about why fabric has blemishes? Read Day 5: The Perfection Myth here.)

The Question

Designers often think French Terry and Fleece are two completely different species of fabric. They ask for "Fleece" for winter and "Terry" for summer, assuming they require different knitting machines.

I asked my dad:

"Dad, what is the actual difference between French Terry and Fleece? And why does one feel like a towel and the other feel like a teddy bear?"

The Answer

Ira:

"Stop overcomplicating it. It’s the same fabric! One just got a haircut. We knit the fabric on the same machine. It comes off with loops on the back—that’s French Terry. If you want Fleece, we take that same fabric and run it through a machine with wire bristles. It rips the loops apart to create fuzz. That’s it. You pay me to knit loops, then you pay me to break the loops to make it fuzzy. It’s like a poodle. Un-brushed, it’s curly (Terry). Brushed, it’s puffy (Fleece). Same dog, different hairstyle."

The Reality Check

Ira’s "Haircut" analogy is the perfect way to understand your hoodie fabrics. Here is the technical breakdown of how to choose the right one for your brand.

It's the same dog, just a different hairstyle. 🐩✂️ Ira explains how we turn French Terry loops into fuzzy Fleece

1. French Terry (The "Loopback")

This is the fabric in its natural state coming off the machine. The back side features loops of yarn.

• High Loop vs. Low Loop: This refers to how tall the loops are.

  • High Loop: Taller loops, more absorbent, feels closer to a towel. Great for beachwear or relaxed fits.

  • Low Loop: Tighter, flatter loops. Less snagging, cleaner look.

• Best For: Mid-weight garments, breathable hoodies, sweat pants and shorts . It keeps you cool because air circulates through the loops.

• The Greene Standard: Our Style #3908 French Terry is the industry standard for that premium, structured high loopback feel.

• The Greene Standard: Our Style #4104 French Terry is the industry standard for that premium, structured low loopback feel.

2. Brushed Fleece (The "Cozy" Stuff)

To make fleece, we take that French Terry and run it through a "napping" process. Wire rollers brush the loops until they break and turn into soft, fuzzy insulation.

• The Effect: This traps body heat, making it much warmer than terry.

• Best For: Heavy winter hoodies, sweatpants, and structured streetwear.

• The Heavyweight King: If you want that ultra-heavy, stiff streetwear feel, you are looking for our Style #4144 Heavyweight Fleece. It’s thick, substantial, and practically windproof.

Which one should you choose?

Since they are often the same base fabric, it comes down to the Season and the Vibe.

Feature	French Terry (Loops)	Brushed Fleece (Fuzz)
Texture	Dry, textured, breathable	Soft, fuzzy, warm
Warmth	Low to Mid (Good for layering)	High (Good for winter)
Drape	Fluid and relaxed	Structured and boxy
Our Pick	Style #3908 or #4104	Style #4144 or #3908

The Bottom Line

Don't get confused by the terminology. If you want texture and breathability, ask for French Terry. If you want warmth and structure, ask for Fleece. Just remember: It’s the same dog, just a different haircut.

Want to feel the difference between High Loop and Brushed Fleece? Order a Swatch Set and touch the textures yourself.